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Do I need a radon test when buying a house in Virginia?

By Daniel Keeton Updated 7 min read

Virginia doesn't require a radon test to buy a house, and sellers don't have to test. The state disclosure form says the owner makes no representation about radon zones and advises buyers to order a radon inspection before settlement. VDH and the EPA recommend testing every home, especially one being purchased; the EPA action level is 4.0 pCi/L, and VDH puts typical mitigation at $800 to $2,500.

Virginia doesn’t require a radon test to buy a house, and sellers don’t have to test before listing. But the state’s disclosure law puts radon research on the buyer, and both the Virginia Department of Health and the EPA recommend testing every home, especially one you’re buying. When I help buyers in Central Virginia, I treat a radon test as a normal part of the inspection period, not an add-on.

The reason is simple: radon can’t be seen or smelled, two houses on the same street can test very differently, and the only way to know is to measure.

Does a Virginia seller have to disclose radon?

No. Virginia is a buyer-beware state. Under Va. Code § 55.1-703, the seller gives you a residential property disclosure statement that says the owner makes no representation about whether the property is in an EPA radon Zone 1 or Zone 2 locality. The same statement advises buyers to check the EPA and VDH radon resources, look up certified radon professionals, and order a radon inspection under the terms of the purchase contract, “but in any event prior to settlement.”

So the law is telling you, in plain terms, that radon is your homework. If you want a test, it has to be built into your contract and done before closing.

That doesn’t give a seller license to hide what they know. If a seller has a past test result or a mitigation system, ask for the paperwork in writing.

What radon zone are Richmond, Charlottesville and Lynchburg in?

The EPA’s county-level radon zones are a rough guide, not a verdict on any house. VDH notes that the EPA map dates to the 1990s, was based on a limited number of tests, and was “never intended to be used for predictive purposes.” It also says high radon results have been found in every Virginia county, including those rated low risk.

With that caveat, here’s how the EPA’s radon zone list classifies the localities we work in. Zone 1 is the highest predicted average indoor level (above 4 pCi/L), Zone 2 is moderate (2 to 4 pCi/L) and Zone 3 is lowest (under 2 pCi/L).

Locality EPA radon zone
Richmond city Zone 3
Henrico County Zone 3
Hanover County Zone 3
Chesterfield County Zone 1
Goochland County Zone 1
Powhatan County Zone 1
Charlottesville city Zone 2
Albemarle County Zone 2
Lynchburg city Zone 2
Bedford County Zone 2
Amherst County Zone 2
Campbell County Zone 1

Two things stand out. First, the Richmond metro splits: the EPA rates Chesterfield, Goochland and Powhatan higher than Henrico, Hanover and the city. Second, a lower zone doesn’t mean a lower result for the house you’re buying. VDH points out that foundations cut into hillsides or valleys, homes over small uranium deposits and homes built on non-native fill can test high anywhere. For more recent data, VDH links a radon risk map built from tests reported in 2016 through 2024.

Use the zone to decide how seriously to take a result, never to skip the test.

What radon level is a problem?

Radon is measured in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). According to VDH’s radon FAQ:

Level What it means
About 0.4 pCi/L Typical outdoor air
About 1.3 pCi/L Average indoor level
4.0 pCi/L or higher EPA’s recommended action level: fix the home
2 pCi/L or below What most homes can be reduced to with mitigation

VDH is clear that there’s no perfectly safe level; 4.0 is where the EPA recommends taking action. Between 2 and 4, many buyers ask about mitigation anyway, and that’s a reasonable conversation to have.

How does radon testing work during a home purchase?

In a sale, you’ll usually see a short-term test because the inspection period is short. VDH’s testing guidance covers what makes the result trustworthy:

  • Closed-house conditions. Windows and outside doors closed for 12 hours before and during the test, with a minimum 48-hour test period.
  • Right location. The lowest livable level, at least 20 inches above the floor, away from outside walls, fans, windows, bathrooms, laundry rooms and sump openings. A finished or easily finished basement counts as livable; a dirt crawlspace doesn’t.
  • Right timing. Don’t test during unusually severe storms, which can cause temporary spikes. Radon tends to run highest in winter.
  • Approved devices. Devices should be approved by the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB).

Who can test. Under Va. Code § 32.1-229.01, anyone who conducts or offers radon testing or mitigation in Virginia must be listed with NRPP or NRSB (or meet another proficiency measure accepted by the EPA or the Board of Health). Many home inspectors offer radon testing; ask whether they’re listed. VDH’s testing page says a professional test usually costs $100 to $200.

What if the first result is high? For a homeowner, VDH’s FAQ says EPA recommends a long-term follow-up test for a first result from 4.0 to 9.9 pCi/L, and a second short-term test (averaged with the first) for a result of 10.0 or above. In a purchase, there usually isn’t time for a long-term test, so the negotiation tends to focus on mitigation instead.

How much does radon mitigation cost, and who pays?

Per VDH, the most common fix is sub-slab depressurization: sealing cracks and using a pipe and fan to pull radon from under the foundation and vent it outside. VDH’s testing and mitigation page estimates:

Home type VDH cost estimate
Typical sub-slab system $800 to $1,200
Crawlspaces or homes with multiple foundation sections $2,000 or more
Range given in VDH’s FAQ for professional systems $800 to $2,500

Nothing in Virginia law says the seller pays. It’s a negotiation under your contract. Common outcomes:

  • The seller hires a certified mitigator before closing, with a post-mitigation test.
  • The seller gives a credit or price reduction and you install the system after closing. Credits have to be shown to and allowed by your lender; never treat a repair credit as something to keep off the paperwork.
  • You accept the house as-is and budget for the system.

If the seller handles it, ask for the mitigator’s certification, the system details and a post-mitigation test result in writing. Mitigation fans can’t be located in livable space, so expect to see piping on an exterior wall or through an attic.

Our guide to asking the seller for repairs after a Virginia home inspection walks through how those requests are written.

What about new construction and well water?

New homes. VDH explains that Virginia lets Zone 1 localities adopt radon-resistant new construction rules, and lists the localities known to require them. None of the Richmond, Charlottesville or Lynchburg localities in the table above are on that list as of VDH’s current page. Some builders install passive radon piping anyway. Either way, VDH recommends testing soon after you move in. If a passive system tests at 4.0 or higher, a certified mitigator can add a fan.

Wells. Radon can also come from private well water, though VDH says that’s generally a small source compared with soil gas, and it isn’t usually a concern with public water. If you’re buying a home on a well, ask your inspector or a water lab about including radon. Our well and septic buying guide covers the other well tests to consider.

Pros and cons of testing for radon when you buy

Pros Cons
The only way to know the level in that specific house Adds roughly $100 to $200 and has to fit the inspection window
A result gives you a factual basis to negotiate A short-term test is a snapshot; levels vary by season
Mitigation is usually straightforward if needed A high result can add a negotiation step close to closing
You’ll have a baseline for future testing Test conditions must be kept; a disturbed test may need redoing

What should a buyer do next?

  1. Before you write an offer, decide whether you want radon testing and make sure your inspection contingency covers it with enough time for the result.
  2. Hire a tester listed with NRPP or NRSB, or confirm your inspector is.
  3. Ask the seller for any prior test results or mitigation records.
  4. If the result is 4.0 pCi/L or higher, get a mitigation quote from a certified mitigator before you respond.

Daniel Keeton, Broker & Founder of Keeton & Co Real Estate, and our team help buyers across Richmond, Charlottesville and Lynchburg plan inspections and negotiate what comes out of them. Keeton & Co recorded 706 closings in the 12 months ending October 2026. If you’re getting ready to make an offer, start a buyer conversation with our team.

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